Fabrics 101: Wool
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Time to read 5 min
Wool is one of those things we think we know.
We know it keeps us warm. We know a good sweater when we feel one. But there is a lot hiding under that little word.
But, 'wool' is really a family of fibres, textures and finishes and there are more variations than you might think and there are just as many ways the fibres can be spun, woven and finished. Creating everything from fine, lightweight knits to fuzzy sweaters and beautifully structured coats.
Consider this Wool 101: a high-level guide to some of the fibres, fabrics and textures you might come across, what they are, how they feel, and a few things worth knowing when you find a piece you love.
The Fibres
Let's start with where it comes from.
Sheep
Most of the wool we come across is sheep's wool, but even within this category there is a ton of variation. The breed of sheep, the fineness of the fibre and the way it's processed can make a huge difference to the way a piece feels.
Merino is known for its fine, soft fibres and is often used for lightweight sweaters, base layers and pieces worn close to the skin. It's smooth, warm without being bulky, and great for layering.
Lambswool comes from the first shearing of a young sheep. The fibres are soft and springy, with a slightly fuzzy quality that makes for gorgeous sweaters, cardigans and scarves.
Shetland wool comes from the Shetland Islands and tends to have a more rustic, textured character. It can be a little drier and more substantial than finer wools, which is part of its charm. Think classic fisherman sweaters, chunky knits and beautiful heritage pieces.
Goats
Many of the fibres we think of as wool actually come from goats.
Cashmere comes from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats and is prized for its fine, lightweight softness. We've already given it a little more attention in Part I of our Fall Fabrics series.
Mohair comes from the Angora goat and is quite different from cashmere. It has a beautiful natural lustre and a distinctive fuzzy texture, while still being surprisingly strong and resilient. It can be spun into everything from delicate, sheer knits to big, fluffy sweaters.
Camelids
Finally there are the camelids — a group that includes some of our favourite lesser-known fibres.
Alpaca is soft, warm and naturally insulating, with a lovely halo that can range from barely-there to wonderfully fuzzy. We talked about why we love it for fall layering in Part I, and it remains one of our favourites for adding a little texture.
Yak is one to keep an eye out for. Its fine undercoat produces a soft, warm fibre with a beautiful hand, and it has become a favourite for luxurious knitwear. It's still a little less familiar than cashmere or alpaca, which is part of what makes finding a beautiful yak knit feel so special.
Camel Hair is a classic, particularly in coats and tailoring. Soft, warm and surprisingly lightweight, it has a naturally beautiful drape and can be brushed and fuzzy or smooth and refined. It is perfect when you want something warm without the bulk.
The Weaves & Fabrics
The fibre is only the beginning.
How it's spun, woven, felted or finished can completely change the way wool looks and feels. This is why two pieces can both be made from wool and feel like entirely different fabrics.
Tweed
Tweed is probably one of the first fabrics that comes to mind when we think about wool. Traditionally made from wool and known for its textured, often flecked appearance, it's full of character. It can be rustic and rugged or refined, making its way into everything from country jackets to beautifully tailored coats and skirts.
Bouclé
Bouclé's texture comes from looped, curled yarns, creating a nubby, almost fuzzy surface. It can be made from wool or blended with other fibres, and is especially fun in jackets, coats and sweaters when you want texture to do most of the work.
Flannel
Soft, warm and slightly fuzzy, flannel gets its characteristic feel from being brushed after weaving. Wool flannel is particularly beautiful in trousers, tailoring and coats, where its softness takes some of the formality out of a structured piece.
Melton
Dense, smooth and substantial, Melton is a classic choice for winter coats. The fabric is heavily felted and tightly finished, giving it a clean surface and enough structure to hold its shape.
Double-Faced Wool
Double-faced wool is made by joining two layers of fabric together, often with the edges left clean rather than covered by a separate lining. The result is warm without being overly bulky, with a soft drape that makes it especially lovely for wrap coats and relaxed tailoring.
Boiled Wool
Boiled wool is exactly what it sounds like — wool that has been washed or agitated in hot water so that the fibres tighten and felt together. It creates a dense, slightly textured fabric that is warm, durable and wonderfully uncomplicated.
Wool Crepe
Wool crepe is a little less obvious for fall, which is part of why we love it. Its tightly twisted yarns give it a slightly grainy texture and beautiful drape, making it much more fluid than the chunky knits and structured coats we usually associate with wool. It's a reminder that wool doesn't always have to mean heavy.
Caring for Wool
The best thing you can do for your wool is, generally, to leave it alone.
Wool doesn't need to be washed every time you wear it. Give it a good airing after wearing, spot clean when you can, and follow the care instructions when it does need a proper wash. Some pieces are perfectly happy with a gentle hand wash, while others are better left to the dry cleaner.
A few things are worth remembering:
Keep it cool.
Heat and agitation are what cause wool fibres to shrink and felt, so if you're washing a wool knit at home, use cool water and handle it gently.
Dry it flat.
Especially with sweaters and other knits. Hanging a wet wool garment can stretch it out of shape, so reshape it gently and let it dry flat.
Store it clean.
Moths are particularly fond of natural fibres, so make sure your woolens are clean before putting them away for the season. Fold knits rather than hanging them, and give everything a little room to breathe.
Don't panic over a little pilling.
Pilling is a natural part of wearing many wool and wool-blend fabrics. A sweater comb or fabric shaver can tidy things up quickly and bring a well-loved piece back to life.
Wool is made to last. Take care of it and a beautiful wool piece can stay in your wardrobe for years — getting softer, more familiar and a little more yours with every season.
Wearing Wool
Of course, the best part is wearing it.
Wool is at its most interesting when you mix it with everything else in your wardrobe. A fine Merino knit with faded denim. A tweed jacket over silk. A fuzzy mohair sweater with leather trousers. A pair of wide-leg wool trousers with a tiny tee and an oversized coat.
There isn't really a formula. The fun is in mixing the textures, weights and proportions until an outfit feels like you.
